Meet Ester Manas, The Brand Bringing Size Inclusivity To The Paris Runways – ELLE
Thu 10 Nov
'Brands will put on curvy girl on the catwalk and think that's enough, but when you go into their shops, there's nothing that would even fit them. There's still a long way to go.'
Balthazar Delepierre
'Empowering every type of woman' might sound like little more than another catch-all, faux-inclusivity marketing line, but for Belgian brand Ester Manas, it is a genuine raison d'être.
Founded in 2019 by Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre, partners in both life and work who met while studying at Brussels' prestigious La Cambre, Ester Manas is one of the most exciting young brands to come out of Paris Fashion Week in recent years – and by far the most size inclusive. Of the 80 shows of PFW Spring/Summer 2023, just nine included plus-size models: a damning indictment on the state of fashion today.
'We shouldn't be talking about size inclusivity in this day and age,' says Delepierre. 'Brands will put on curvy girl on the catwalk and think that's enough, but when you go into their shops, there's nothing that would even fit them. There's still a long way to go.'
Ester Manas Spring 2023
But it's not just about lofty ideals. 'As a size 44-46 customer, it's been really hard for me,' explains Manas. 'I always had the feeling that because I was big, I wasn't "invited" into the luxury world. So when it was time for me to work on my final graduate collection, there was no question that it would focus on size inclusivity. I wanted to try and change the attitude – not just for myself but for all women.'
In the absence of 'big enough' mannequins and patterns, Manas fitted her graduate collection on her own body – and developed techniques inspired by swimwear and lingerie to create clothes that would 'fit the body, rather than trying to make bodies fit the clothes.' Think stretch fabrics, clever ruching, smocking, and lots of strings, threads and lace for a boldly sensual feel – all devised to be one-size-fits-all, and largely crafted from deadstock and upcycled fabrics.
The reception was overwhelming. 'When the collection first came out, it was like a standing ovation,' recalls Delepierre. 'It was super emotional for everyone, and we realised we had to take our concept further.'