Martine Rose flips American history with Tommy Jeans – THE FACE
Thu 3 Nov
Martine Rose has long been influenced by the subcultures of Britain’s past, but you could say that, by now, her brand is a fully-formed cult of its own. Taking the unpolished rage of punk, the romance of lovers’ rock, the optimism and familiarity of football terraces and the unabashed hedonism of acid ravers, Martine Rose has cultivated an attitude that revels in sex, sounds and good times.
She is, after all, embedded in the best of Britain. And that’s what makes the brand’s latest collaboration all the more special, as Rose leaps over the pond and partners with Tommy Jeans for a capsule collection rooted in traditional Americana tropes. But with master subverter Martine Rose tugging from one side, it’s not all varsity jackets and blue jeans.
Diving into Tommy’s expansive archive, Rose drew from some of the subcultures the all-American brand has been influenced by in its 37 year history. “We wanted to avoid the more obvious approach of a ’90s hip-hop revival,” the designer says, “it felt too familiar.” Instead, she explored the “preppy, collegiate Hamptons man as an exploration of American culture.”
The longevity and influence of Tommy Jeans has certainly inspired Rose in her past collections. Oversized denim jackets, jeans subverted through sexy criss-cross detailing, and printed XL windbreakers have all been re-contextualised for the modern Martine wearer. That said, she’s never been one for obvious design decisions, choosing instead to remix, blend, stretch or corrupt tradition.
“The handwriting of Tommy was so familiar, there was an existing synergy that made the collaboration a very easy process,” Rose says. “It was amazing to get access to the entire Tommy archive. We’ve worked on past collaborations where the brand does something completely different to us, but with Tommy it was a fluid process as it’s a brand we already draw inspiration from.”