‘I’m a super sweet psychopath’: ABRA is fashion’s secret, viral weapon – DAZED
Wed 9 Nov
There is no such thing as the singular, genius designer – that any major collection is the result of one individual is one of the industry’s longest-held myths. For example, there is a man in Paris who makes shoes from old bits of balloons, discarded knobs of soap, and splattered eggs. He refers to himself as “lord of the kitten heel” and is widely regarded as a fashion house’s secret weapon, crafting bizarrely covetable accessories that simultaneously repel and pull-in shoppers. Jacquemus’ mismatched block heels were of his creation, as were all of the Jonathan Anderson pieces listed above, and Coperni’s viral kettlebell bags. “Whenever I do something a bit weird it’s probably coming from my obsession with middle-aged dressing or the world of Japan,” he says. “It’s not exactly ugly, but perhaps a little unexpected.”
Born in a remote village in Alicante, where the main industry is shoe-making, Abraham Ortuño spent his childhood in his parents’ restaurant, being “obsessed with Barbies and fashion”. At just 17, he moved to Barcelona, where he assisted Elena Cardona – one of Martin Margiela’s designers – before studying at the Institut Français de la Mode in Paris. “I was working with other brands at the time (Givenchy, Kenzo, Paco Rabanne) but I quickly understood the only way I’d fully be able to express myself would be through starting my own label,” he says. “And so I did.” In 2020, he launched ABRA, a line of cold-blooded clothing, handbags, and shoes that stretch to a size 10, “so that everyone can enjoy our designs”. There, Pepto Bismol boots, spiked Baguettes, quilted slippers, and knife-point mules run the gamut of video game vixens and old-fashioned abuelas in their Sunday best.