GQ’s Complete Guide to Big Menswear Trends – GQ
Thu 29 Aug
Francesco Martino | Photography Courtesy of Stefano Martinetto, Martine Rose, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY, Hed Mayner
Featuring Q&A with Stefano Martinetto, CEO of Tomorrow.
Predicting the future of fashion is increasingly difficult, which is why we asked buyers, stylists and industry people for help to try to discover how we will dress in the coming months.
Let's go back to experimenting
Stefano Martinetto, CEO Tomorrow
GQ: With the latest fashion weeks in mind, what do you develop images for menswear?
The menswear market is always interesting. By its very nature, it has always been open to experimentation and cultural influences. Even more than womenswear, if you like. Looking at the history of recent years, however, I would say that menswear has been too reactive rather than proactive. It has adapted to what was happening around it: from Virgil to streetwear , through the pandemic and the idea of quiet luxury that I have always been skeptical about. If I had to make a wish, I would like to see continuous innovation again, from season to season, and have designers capable of culturally representing groups of consumers with an aligned value system.
From the runways to the streets, which menswear trends are set to blossom and which are set to fade away in the coming months?
When interest rates drop, the typical fashion consumer, the one who perhaps doesn't have many financial commitments and has a good amount of money to use for his own pleasure, will have a positive reaction. This is why I believe that a return to maximalism, to a very evident product, is inevitable. It's all extremely cyclical. But look, my prediction is not on a trend, but on a human reaction. At the same time, it seems to me that we are returning to a somewhat 90s-style distribution structure. We have gone from large online catalogs where everything is available and the only point of differentiation is the price to a return to purchasing at boutiques based on the owner's personal taste, returning to selling to the real customer who perhaps indulges in a whim. In my opinion, that customer will come into the store and buy something that hasn't been seen for a long time: second lines. They have gone out of fashion after several brands have abused them, but I am sure that companies that will be able to offer a good second-line product will have a great opportunity.
Nowadays, maintaining a dialogue with your consumer is essential, whether online or in a store.
Stefano Martinetto, CEO Tomorrow
If you had to choose an object, accessory or piece of clothing to focus on, which one would you choose and why?
I think there is a lot of space in the single product, especially if we talk about longevity. The regular customer ultimately becomes loyal to a few products, such as shoes and trousers. So, if I had to tell you which brand I would buy today, I would most likely say those who deal with single products. There is also space for the functional accessory for men. Historically we have had men who have gone from briefcases to shoulder bags, then there were backpacks and now I think there is space for tote bags.
Recommend one or more brands to keep an eye on or from which we should have at least one item in our wardrobe.
I would be lying if I didn't tell you that two designers like Martine Rose and Charles Jeffrey have found an extremely strong design coherence. Among my own, I would definitely say those two, but looking outside, things get more difficult. Today, a brand, in order to work, must have a strong personality and characteristics of quality and longevity that push the consumer to buy it at full price. Because buying a discounted item is not an expression of will, but also because for years no one has talked about quality. Last but not least, is the customer experience. Nowadays, maintaining a dialogue with your consumer is essential, whether online or in a store. Everything must be coordinated. In closing, if I really have to give you a name, I'd say Lemaire .