Twists on Tradition at Milan AW22

Without London Men's, the start of fashion week - one that usually starts so abruptly with the new year - felt much less frantic. Covid regulations aside, there was an ease to Milan Fashion Week. Perhaps that's the feeling of starting a season with the classical houses of Milan and not the experimentation of London. 

With that in mind, Milan this week felt particularly sophisticated and traditional. Zegna, for example, undoubtedly a class in timeless style, presented a plethora of pieces, from sublime tailoring to rich textures, across a span of environments. These were smarter than just updated classics; brands were making tweaks and adjustments to revamp the old world stylings while still trying to adhere to a classic structure. Practical yet refined, this is Covid-proof dressing. There was a lot of that at play this week. What's a substantial investment with seasonal holidays and trends in such a state of flux? Classic styles, layer-able pieces, textures that work from day to night. Buy less but better.  

Fendi encapsulated this perfectly, catering to the wave of men who want to switch their WFH uniform to an elevated systematic wardrobe. Wools, leathers, decadent silks met dandyish knee-high socks, ruffs and collar-less styles. It was dressing up without explicit branding or fanfare. On the other hand, Prada brought the hype with a star-studded cast - Jeff Goldblum, Kyle Maclachlan and Asa Butterfield, to name a few - that showcased a trim, trend-focused collection. Broad shoulders, cinched waists and fur-trims the details du jour, picking up from season's past.

JW Anderson also nodded to past hits but was an exception to the wave of classicism this season. Silver lamé, sequins and novelty accessories and insignia aplomb threw tradition to the wind with fantasy. By comparison, A-COLD-WALL* was astute but embodied a new wave of men's style that seeks to reinvent the tropes of sartorialism. ALYX, too felt attuned to today's shoppers' wants but felt more forced than Samuel Ross' designs. Ross has a highly alert instinct for classic styles that need adjusting or regenerating, playing with fabrications, iconic items such as the A1 bomber jacket and structural silhouettes. Point in case is his label division: A-COLD-WALL* remains the curated, artistically-minded entity, while ACW is the more commercial pre-collection. 

Milan was traditional at its core, as it usually is, but the big brands are updating the old-money dress tradition this season while the younger brands reinvent it. 

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