Remixing, Reminiscing and The Rebirth of Runway: It's Milan Fashion Week SS22

The fashion industry is always on a somewhat cliched hunt for youth and newness. So fast does the pace of fashion move; we’re constantly searching for the next thing to whet our appetite, post about, and be seen. This season, particularly at Milan Fashion Week, there was already that feeling of new imbuement. Most of us haven’t been at shows for the past 18 months, and the whole concept of fashion week feels excitingly fresh. In reality, things have slinked back to exactly as they were - very little has changed about the fashion week format or routine - the pundits’ hunger for nostalgia is satiated merely through attendance. Brands that genuinely shone this Milan Fashion Week were those that challenged the big-brand return to the runway, those that exemplified that sense of nostalgia and those that sounded the contemporary klaxon with the genuinely unexpected.

None was more surprising than Fendi and Versace’s collaboration. Kim Jones is the king of collaboration, having worked with Peter Doig, Daniel Arsham and Travis Scott, but it’s unexpected, even for Jones, to see two such brands pair up. Jones had tapped into the Versace archive for a collection designed to bring a bit of joy. Superstar models such as Amber Valetta, Shalom Harlow and Kristen McMenamy walked the show, making the presentation read like a modern-day Battle of Versailles. But did we need this homogenised push for the new? Both Fendi and Versace’s shows were already such successes this season. Fendi’s use of illustrator Antonio Lopez’ work and Versace’s star-studded noughties fiesta were just the fitting nod to nostalgia needed.

Blumarine’s SS22 show was equally as welcome and familial as Nicola Brognano’s Blumarine brilliantly echoed the Paris Hilton-era of crushed velvet, ultra skin-baring skirts and candy colours. N21 also paid homage to the era, with silky bubblegum trousers, bootcut jeans and fleshy cut-outs bringing sentimentality to the schedule.

On the other side of the spectrum were those that flexed muscle in presentation style. Sunnei, a personal favourite, was presented on a blindingly bright runway with their signature styles excited with fluid patterns, activewear and bold - and necessary - sunglasses. Marni, too was phenomenally innovative and authentic. Dressing around 400 guests, models and onlookers became one, as Francesco Risso’s artful, tactile pieces struck a chord - even through my screen. Prada, who simultaneously showed in both Milan and Shanghai, was a celebration of the community too. The looks were effortlessly seductive - corsetry, Duchesse satins, subtle flashes of skin - but I am still not quite 100% convinced by Raf Simons’ input.

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