Post-SS22, Is Change On The Horizon?

I had intended to write about just the second half of Paris Fashion Week, but, as the days rolled on, more and more unravelled, and the days thereafter gave arguably the best of the season. Some weren’t even of the SS22 season (a positive sign for rewiring times) but made ample noise nonetheless. As we - fingers crossed - come out of the pandemic, there’s a divide in what we want to wear or what retailers want to invest in. Do we want fashion-forward eccentricity? Or is that too risky for buyers? Do we want authentic clothes over fashion? Or is that not enough to peacock in when celebrating our newfound freedom? The best of the season answered all.

Brands that veered more towards the fashion-focused went full glamour, with dramatic silhouettes, collaborations, excess. It was a mixed bag in success though, with the likes of Vetements giving us a slightly excessive 129 looks, or Matthew Williams pre-collection for Givenchy, which brought the Machine Gun Kelly aesthetic to the house. Even Kim Jones’ Dior, who had collaborated with musician Travis Scott, felt a little off-kilter. Save for Jones’ signature decadent tailoring, Dior SS22 was slightly too contrived in its appeal for the Gen-Z. Off-White also, with its performative graffiti and abstract shapes, seemed to shout for eccentricity. For both, what was strong and inviting (and when it was great, it was really great) was almost lost amongst the commotion.

Jacquemus also caused quite a stir; top models looked brilliant in his Mediterranean take on GORPcore. This was the osmosis of both worlds: practically-minded clothes met fancy fare. The use of bubblegum pink and red in particular on the womenswear, worn by Kendall Jenner, went viral and was a hit. Y/Project brought hybrids to the runway, their extraordinary stylings merging with an unexpected collaboration with Fila. The Italian brand’s preppy, familiar aesthetic amongst Glenn Maartens’ mind-boggling pieces was an interesting collision. White Mountaineering, usually known for their fine eye for functional clothing, felt much more street conscious this season. Colour, rich materials, purely aesthetic detailing: this was practicality and style in one conclusive piece.

We’re almost at the start of something this fashion week. There’s an exciting fresh breeze blowing in the right direction, sweeping the cobwebs away and eschewing the schedules of yesterday. Whether you’re excited to don the most eccentric, high fashion look or you are after the best trousers you can (Jil Sander SS22, I’m looking at you), this season is starting to wipe the slate clean. As I write, there’s more to follow in the coming hours, Pieter Mulier’s debut at Alaia and the latest from Kiko Kostadinov included. Things are changing; watch this space...

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