Optimism for Milan Men's SS22

Optimism was the word for Milan this season. Brands were baring legs, heading back to their roots, showing physical shows. It felt like a fresh new mood and, dare I say… celebratory.

Wales Bonner was one such bolt of newness, with one of her best collections yet. Sumptuously rich textures took us back to Bonner’s days of pearl buttons and couture-style satin jackets but were remixed with light stripes and soft, hazy knits.

Knits, despite the summer season, were aplenty. Fendi had candy-coloured chunky jumpers, Zegna had soft cashmere styles atop their typical tailoring, Prada had trimmed them down into playful vests - all inviting, all viscerally engaging. Perhaps the stand-out of knitwear was JW Anderson, admittedly showing more towards the Paris side of the schedule, who brought his brand signature of hand-craft and knitwear into the fore as a continuation of last season. The whimsical strawberry motifs and wonderful beadwork harked back to the core codes of the brand.

A-COLD-WALL* also felt self-reflective. The notes of style - Helvetica fonts, performance wear accents, relaxed silhouettes - felt in tune with the earlier styles of A-COLD-WALL* only this time they were pumped up with pangs of neon, elevated fabrications and again, tactile knits. A stellar collection. Those that showed jumpers were also showing skin and lots of it. Prada (another fantastic show) gave us legs, legs, legs with short-shorts paired with sartorial socks. Amongst a romantic 3-part setting, Zegna had brought the party with silken short two-sets. Fendi flashed the thigh with function, as pockets appeared aplomb; the latter with mixed success. Skin is undoubtedly in.

Sunnei is usually a stand-out from the week, riffing on their Sunnei Canvas immersive format, taking viewers on a virtual tour of key pieces and fabrications. This season, their accessories lept from the screen, particularly the space-age shoes and new iterations of dipped earring. All in all, Milan felt like a warm wind blowing us on track after a storm. It was a refreshingly pleasant affair with physical shows creeping back - Etro, Armani and Dolce & Gabbana - and fashion starting to feel ‘new’ again. On to Paris!

Back to Editorial