NYC Is Back!

Well, It seems fashion week is back. Yes, it’s a shame to see the wave of digital innovation dropped as soon as IRL shows return, but when New York has been disparate for so long, you can’t help but feel excited for the designers’ return to the runway. Even from watching across the pond, there was a tangible sense of community and fanatical excitement. 

New York spread the joy on thick this season. From the opening show of Collina Strada to the glittering optimism of Tom Ford - there was no doubt that New York was selling happy. Collina Strada’s signature riotous brights were seen in frills, thongs and fruit prints, well suited for the everyday princess. At Studio189 NYC, even amongst the respectful 9/11 moments of memorium, there was cheer; models danced down the runway in bare feet and clashing prints and patchworks. Perhaps the most explicitly jubilant was Tom Ford, whose jewel tones and 80s shoulders brought party and power to the runway. 

While still offering a sense of celebration, others on the schedule put a new, forward-thinking spin on their signatures. Maisie Wilen took her geometric, trippy prints and pulled them through a pastel filter. Top that with a performance from pop-princess Kim Petras, and you have a punky yet saccharine Gen-Z dream collection. As did Vaquera, whose tongue-in-cheek stylings, rough and tough runway march and dripping silver gems felt like the perfect nonchalant IG-worthy street style. Proenza Schouler also showcased that uncomplicated edge, as did Eckhaus Latta. The former has fringing, monochromatic stylings and a focus on the waist, while the latter has a cut-out, confident silhouettes, slick denim, and sheers. 

Perhaps the stand-out of the week was Peter Do. Hotly anticipated, his fresh, minimalist collection was a celebration of his Asian-American team as well as an exercise in elevated functionality. There’s a subliminal anti-establishment tone, too; one gets the feeling Do is going against the grain, doing things his way, and despite showing against the Manhattan skyline, he’s side-stepped away from anything overly commercial, corporate or cliché.

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