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Sun 4 Oct

The format of a Yohji Yamamoto show hasn't changed for many seasons and rightly so. It’s almost always at the Palais and it’s always a powerfully emotive wash of black. This season, the show had moved to Salons de l'Hotel de Ville, much grander in comparison and where the likes of Dries van Noten would normally present.

Nonetheless, the space lent itself marvellously to the ostensible colour simplicity of Yamamoto's designs. Decadent chandeliers and mirrored walls added a level of regality to the feather headpieces and exposed, raw crinolines that showed. Necklines were high and straight while hemlines carved shadows with their ornamental tendrils.

There was a melancholic undertone throughout the collection, however, as straps around jacket waist, belts around thighs and bound arms suggested themes of isolation and feeling trapped. Sounding all too familiar. The show closed with a group dressed in white, a light at the end of the tunnel perhaps or possibly something more ominous - either way, this collection was as beautifully pensive and considered as ever.