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Thu 24 Sep

Raf Simons’ debut at the helm of Prada with Miuccia. Did it deliver? Yes, a resounding yes, even if it felt a little prescribed at times.

A yellow plush set, not too dissimilar to that of Raf Simons’ AW20 menswear collection, saw impeccably cast models walk amongst cameras as their name appeared on screens. A dystopian scene very much in keeping with Simons’ retro-future explorations but also a reference to the amplified screen-time we’ve all been experiencing.

Models clutched at coats that shrugged around the shoulder - something we’ve seen at Simons’ appointment at Jil Sander, as well as 90s-era Prada - fantastic kitten heels, were reminiscent of Simons’ at Dior and will doubtless be an instant Prada hit, as will the bags, logo earrings and ear-clips. This was one for the accessories. Simons’ signature printed writing, graphics and logos were perhaps the only miss of this collection, as they lurched the viewer out of the Prada fantasy. But the colour-blocking, prints, anti-polka-dot polo necks and re-usable nylon fabrications made up for it, these were splendid.

Mrs Prada said in the accompanying discussion ‘new is the nightmare of every designer... I don't know if it's so relevant anymore.’ While I agree, one doesn't need 'newness' from the debut of two fashion giants, I had hoped to be satiated with something a bit more outside-of-the-box. But, then again, when met with a beautifully balanced mix of Raf-isms and Miuccia, not something you see every day, perhaps simply ticking the boxes is enough.