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Sun 20 Sep

Pariah Farzaneh likes to send a message with her collections. Often these messages appear through performative elements within her shows; previous collections have presented traditional Iranian weddings or with a metaphor-rich conveyor-belt scene. This season, at a sunlit farm in Amersham, onlookers witnessed her biggest showstopper yet.

Models walked in arrowed formation with drones flying overhead and coloured smoke flying. It was strong, long and impactful and for good reason. Like many designers this season, Farzaneh was showcasing strength over adversity, her notes read of knowing what to believe in, of ‘sticking to what we want, what we know, to our ability to create art and keep it alive.’

As such, Farzaneh’s garments this season were layered and padded. Puffed silver trouser, cardigans with map lines and hiking-esque trainers all appeared to hint toward a theme of preparation and protection. Womenswear was well and truly introduced (previous seasons had seen one or two pieces) with sheeny burgundy skirts and jackets and almost-camo print dresses atop fishnet tight. All brilliant. Farzaneh has found a great rhythm with her collections and this was strong in every sense of the word.