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Tue 29 Sep

Some might say that Marine Serre's long-time reference of the dystopian and techno-future is a little too on the nose for a presentation in such times. After all, Serre was creating masks and shields long before they were deemed a global necessity. Perhaps that's why this season's collection was a little more rooted in the mystical, in a utopian outlook.

Serre's film was extraordinary, as was the collection. Two characters, played by Serre's peers, Iranian-Dutch singer Sevdaliza and the French artist Juliet Merie, were the film's cryptic protagonists, traversing great lands through astral projections. They metamorphosed through scenes and tribes - the latter a key motif for Serre - in laser engraved moonfish skin bodysuits, shield visors and a survival harness crinoline. That skirting was a triumph.

The real showstopper in this collection was the whip-sharp tailoring which was rendered in biodegradable nylon and recycled moiré. Where there was sharp there was soft as knitwear and regenerated denim kept the collection at an equilibrium. This film was an incredibly ambitious venture, particularly during a pandemic, but then again, when has that ever stopped Serre? She proves that luxury can be renewable, recyclable and importantly, desirable more and more with every season. This was another show-stopping example.