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Tue 15 Sep

It’s a tricky one this SS21 season, we’re all a bit unsure on how to proceed. In the semi-wake of COVID-19, brands are deciding to show in either a socially distanced physical space or a digital presentation, with ‘phygital’ also an option. Jason Wu, a designer known for crafting sportswear elements with a couture sensibility, opened New York Fashion Week with a physical show on the roof of Spring Studios.

Viewing from London, the show looked as COVID-savvy as one can be in these times - generously spaced seating, open air venue, bright bushy foliage – it seemed to be all very well done. The clothes felt like an antidote to the cramped apartments, tight awkward living quarters and stressful lockdowns of 2020. Light linens and tasseled sandals seemed to hint at a bohemian tropical escape, so did the pops of neon on shirt dress and the indigo patterned soft-tailoring. All was surprisingly casual for Wu, with rounder lines, pattens slightly blurred and earthen textures.

Wu took the common styles of the pandemic – soft loungewear and comfortable casuals – and put them in a highly coveted holiday scenario. A clever customer move in such uncertain times for the buying market. Even smarter? Having the iconic model, activist and actress Indya Moore open your show. First up to bat, Wu has shown how to hit the ball out of the park with a customer savvy, socially distanced runway show and collection.