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Mon 12 Oct

Israeli menswear designer Hed Mayner is on the up and up. After being a 2019 LVMH Prize finalist, his collections have soared and his SS21 collection was another stellar example of what Mayner does best. Showing both via film and lookbook, Mayner's SS21 collection saw the return of his signature louche tailoring, with nods to spirituality imbued throughout.
Dropped shoulder blazers, calico harem-style trouser and soft woollen vest all eluded to traditional Jewish orthodox attire while double-breasted cream blazer gave structure with its military feel. Pieces were beautifully gestural, with the styling of knots, twists and draping all adding to the poetic energy of the collection. But the standouts here were the wide-leg paperboy waist trousers in both denim and satin-like finish. Both felt like fresh, exciting additions to the capacious collection of shapes on show.

Mayner manages to strike a perfect equilibrium of vulnerability and power in his pieces, that is in part why his collections are so visually arresting. There's just enough skin exposed, enough variety of texture, enough of a variation of his signature earthen tones to keep each collection fluid and new. This was his best yet.