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Mon 5 Oct

A brand new appointment at the house of Givenchy certainly caused a stir. On first glance, Matthew Williams’ signature styles at 1017 ALYX 9SM are a great fit for Givenchy; sexy tailored suiting, sharp lines and leathers are all in keeping with the house codes. In theory, one could assume that Williams’ Givenchy wouldn't be quite the hard left in aesthetic from predecessor Claire Waight Keller. His designs certainly have the undertones of the deep and mysterious Berlin mood that Waight Keller had been exploring in seasons' past, but, in reality, what showed was a lot less Berlin Bohemia and a bit more noughties music video.

Williams' SS21 debut was unexpectedly gaudy. Where one had hoped for sensual dresses and edgy-cool shoes, there were pagoda shoulders, leather speedos and three-toe separated sandals (yes, you read that right.) The suiting was both boxy and slick and the best picks of the collection, as were the high-neck vests and sweeping-low back dresses but all were missing that 1017 ALYX 9SM edge.

However, accessories, as predicted, were strong and covetable. Snakeskin leathers, decorative hardware, strong structural shapes - all made for pieces that will be recognisable in the street as Williams at Givenchy. Indeed, the hardware is what Williams does best, his rollercoaster buckle at both 1017 ALYX 9SM and Dior Men's are hugely popular. Whether his Givenchy padlocks will be as successful is yet to be determined but I would wager they will be. Not quite the start one had hoped for but the ingredients for success are all there, hopefully, next season they'll come together a little better.