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Wed 30 Sep

Since Dries van Noten's collaboration with Christian Lacroix two seasons ago, the Van Noten aesthetic has been given a bit of a twist. Van Noten's frou and fantasy, colours and textures had been more vivacious than ever. The same happened when the brand was acquired by Puig but the opposite way. Shapes were straighter, colours more muted, less clashing, more co-ordinated.

For SS21, Van Noten seems to be back in a good rhythm. There were riotous colours and beautiful patterns but all within a commercially sound silhouette or shape. The lookbook, shot by Viviane Sassen, was high energy, smiles and sunshine. All outdoors and action - things we long for, more than ever at present.

This collection had great movement. Tightly belted blazer over pink netted skirt, metallic or hypnotic stripe shirt catching a breeze, the shadow cast from slim-line culottes or dramatic full-skirt. Menswear with womenswear too, made for a more harmonious collection as did the styling.

You could feel the fun that had been had here, Van Noten had gone back to what he loves. But while this collection's authentic feel will satiate, for now, Van Noten's tangible textures, tones and opulence are missed.