About Brands Editorial Digital Showroom Goods and Services Press Services


Tue 6 Oct

A pared-back set at Chanel this season, in comparison to the blockbuster sets of season’s past. The Grand Palais was decked with a CHANEL logo much like the Hollywood sign. This hinted, as usual, to the references at play at Virginie Viard’s third show as Creative Director of Chanel: An ode to the actresses who have been the house’s muses over the years.

There was a focus on Hollywood street lights, the moments in between film takes and having fun - this could be seen in the neon C’s atop flowing dress, the mini bralettes (something Viard has been pushing) and the acid-wash jeans, a peppy homage to the Chanel women. The collection overall was a mix of fresh, youthful pieces with some that felt a little dated. The T-bar shoes for example, or the half-half trousers in sheers and satin rushing, felt a bit at odds with some of the invitingly energetic pieces. Indeed it could be said that, should a few pieces be removed or the styling and accessorising tweaked, you would have a collection that really excites and proposes something new for Chanel.

Despite this, the candy pink jumper, dress, and top with trompe l’oeil contrast piping were a hit, as were the leg-of-mutton sleeve jackets, the denim jackets, the Bermuda shorts and the off-shoulder glittered dress. It seems that Viard is really finding her groove. The show closed with Jessie Ware’s ‘Spotlight’, another nod to the actresses that have been the faces of Chanel and a sign that Viard is targeting a younger market - Ware’s new album is very of the moment. This collection was a positive step for Viard and indicates the house is on the way to proposing something altogether new.