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Thu 9 Jul

Last season we saw a much more refined and reduced collection from A-COLD-WALL* than prior seasons had shown. Samuel Ross' first show in Milan was straightforward only on first appearances, with intricate elements peppered throughout. For his Pre-Spring 2021 collection this theme of deceptively simple styles continued with slick tailoring, clever fabrications and performance-wear aplomb.

Divided into three sections, Contemporary Craftsmanship, Progressive Essentials and Performance Tailoring, this collection showcases Ross' intuitive engagement with customers. Always listening and reacting, Ross has honed in on the details customers enjoy, such as accessibility and high-functioning fabrications. Cleverly adapting and editing, all the while keeping a strong brand identity and ethos.

Riffs on classic styles such as the M65 jacket and tracksuit are updated through fabric or cut, while organic cottons, ergonomic seams and lightweight breathable textures make comfort a top priority. Logos and motifs are smaller, more discreet, to cater to the creative professional Ross has in mind. All the press favourites of A/W 20, (those brilliant gelled shoes!) are here too, but now with an exciting hint of next season's cultivated ideas. Interest is certainly piqued.