All Eyes On Paris Fashion Week For The Big Runway Return

All eyes on Paris Fashion Week for the big return to runway life. Would we see a radical reset from brands? Would the top names crave newness or come back strong with an amped-up version of house signatures? As critics, we demand the former, but customers arguably want the latter, particularly post-pandemic.

Marine Serre had riffed off her staple hybridised eco-conscious styles with twangs of noughties-inspired clubwear, always one of the first of the week to show. Her moon insignia was still prevalent - customers will be pleased to know - but with a holiday-ready feel—an innovative refresher for the Serre solar system.

Rick Owens, too, invited us back to his Palais de Tokyo mainstay for a revitalised rendition of the Rick classics. Bias-cut dresses, caped silhouettes, phenomenal thigh-high boots showed us that Owens does trends (in this case exposed flesh and nostalgia) his way, through reimagined classics, and always will.

Of those bringing the fanfare back to fashion week, Coperni was undoubtedly one to watch. Their shows over the pandemic were brilliant spectacles, in tune with the brand ethos but setting a new precedent each time. This season, the recently married Coperni duo Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer made yet another visual statement, this time in a make-shift hemp field. Perfect for a hot honeymoon, Coperni’s signature figure-hugging silhouettes peppered with cowrie shells, jungle-like graphic prints and noughties lamé. A favourite thus far.

Others built on their in-house looks, Ottolinger with candy-coloured optimism on their string-strapped pieces, and Raf Simons with his sartorial approach to gender fluidity. A phrase that feels null and void at this point but still an exciting display. Here’s hoping these ideas become a mainstay for Simons and, indeed, Prada.

Finally, Loewe. The show sent the industry into a tizzy. It was a monastic and dramatic show space, with fashion that genuinely, which is admittedly also a trite fashion phrase, felt new. Shapes subverted, knees an unexpected focal point and angular erogenous zones. A surreal experiment that paid off.

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