A-COLD-WALL* SPRING / SUMMER 2023 – VOGUE
Wed 29 Jun
We were in Paris, at a presentation space near the Atlas metro, for this preface to a new geographical chapter in the progress of Samuel Ross and A-Cold-Wall. Ross, who prior to the pandemic had been showing Italian made collections in Milan, had kept news of the two presentations and two raves he threw here during fashion week (one as a part of a collaboration with Converse) extremely close to the vest. “We are slowly loading into Paris,” he said, then dropped that he plans to present A-Cold-Wall’s next collection here in a show format in January (read into that what you will).
This lookbook is mostly concerned with the atelier-finished pieces that right now Ross is most creatively stimulated by. Or as he put it: “I wanted to be a lot closer in the making of the clothes. And you can’t use these techniques if you try and operate at scale, because they have to be done by local hands in the atelier. But this produces garments of true beauty and I have fallen love with this side of the work.” The opening piece was a prime example of Ross’s new approach. Full of volume, tactically pocketed, with removable arms, cut in eco-leather, and patterned with a distorted Carrera leather relief, this much worked upon coat was then finished with a stencil paint treatment.