A-Cold-Wall* enters a new conceptual era for SS22 – i-D
Tue 22 Jun
After focusing on “making really great ready-to-wear” for the last few seasons, Samuel Ross discusses the fresh direction he’s taking his brand in.
In the six years since Samuel Ross founded A-Cold-Wall*, the London-based label has established a sturdy reputation for a few things: a contemplative, sculpturally-informed approach to menswear; high-concept spectacles that merge the worlds of fashion and performance art; and, at the heart of it all, really good, functional ready-to-wear. Two things it’s been perhaps less known for, though, are zingy pops of colour and swooning drapes — until its SS22 collection, presented yesterday during Milan Fashion Week, that is.
Indeed, while these may not be things we’ve come to expect from Samuel, that’s the very reason why it makes sense he’s chosen to place them in focus now. It’s a natural progression of the trajectory he’s established over the past half-decade, expanding beyond the territory of conceptually-minded streetwear — of which he was, and still is, an effective prince — into tailoring, casualwear and reassuring knits in muted, earthy tones.
Through the consistent diversification of its design language, A-Cold-Wall* has essentially reached a point where it appeals to a diverse audience that want different things. It’s something Samuel became acutely aware of last week when he released the lookbook for his SS22 pre-collection. While one segment of his audience was thrilled to see the collection of wearable technical jackets, shorts and jerseys in rugged, sombre washes and bright citrus hues, another was left wanting for another side of the brand.
“It’s funny,” says Samuel, “I was reading some comments from people saying things like, ‘Argh, the pre-collection is too wearable! We want crazy conceptual forms back!’“, mostly from people who perhaps don’t quite understand that pre-collections are typically more commercially-skewed than more concept driven mainline collections.