5 Things To Know About Martine Rose’s Electric SS23 Collection – VOGUE
Mon 13 Jun
Martine Rose returned to an IRL show format with a bang. From the floor-length Latex curtains and shrunken silhouette to her BDSM-inspired accessories, here’s everything you need to know about Martine Rose’s spring/summer 2023 collection.
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Martine Rose hosted a live spectacle after two years
The British designer returned to showing in a physical format under the arches in Vauxhall in a tight, hazy venue that was surrounded by floor-length Latex curtains. The aromas of a fog machine and rubber were reminiscent of a seedy nightclub. “It’s great to be back on the runway, because you can’t beat that in-person experience,” says Rose. “I’m honoured to be showing in Vauxhall, it’s such an important community in London.”
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The collection is about sex and tension
“I wanted everything to feel sexy, which is the underlying mood,” says Rose. “My focus has been on the details, like the exposed zips and ill-fitting sleeves, as well as a new, shrunken silhouette.” From awkward padded sports coats and twisted seam trousers, to oversized fringed leather jackets and skin-tight slogan baby T-shirts, the collection was a perverse blend of extreme fits.
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There was womenswear peppered throughout
“I love the women’s looks this season, because I’m feeling a lot more confident with it,” the designer told British Vogue. From a golden silk button-up shirt and miniskirt set worn with an oversized camel coat, to a black tunic top equipped with a half-exposed back paired with tailored trousers, Rose explored classic womenswear staples with her signature, twisted house codes.